2011 - 3rd Journey, Day 1

DAY 18  (May 14, 2011):  Third Journey, Day 1

Nazareth through Sephoris (Zippori) to Cana of Galilee

Woke at 5:30 in an Arab inn buried deep in the old city of Nazareth.  Thunder was rumbling and rain falling.  Wow, talk about ambiance!

View of Nazareth from portico outside my room

View over courtyard to portico and my room (two shuttered windows on left).  Note pigeon on corner in upper left who, along with other pigeons and doves, added a most melodic background music of fluttering and cooing to the scene.

I went online and worked on my blog before having breakfast at 7:30 with David Landis in the dining room of the Fauzi Azar Inn which is painted with murals on all walls. 

David is one of the three creators of “The Jesus Trail”, friendly and helpful as can be, and chock full of tips and tricks about the hike.  With both afterburners of my excitement engines in full flame, I then packed my bags, checked out, and left the inn at precisely 9 am. 

Nazareth’s stone alleys and streets were wet with the morning’s rain, but it had stopped falling while I was packing.  So, with about 20 pounds on my shoulders (I say “shoulders” instead of “back” because I not only have a pack on my back but also have one clipped to the straps which hangs in front of me) for the next 30 minutes I walked up 406 steps (they counted ‘em) to get onto the high ridgeline upon which Nazareth sits.  It was a strenuous climb and a good warm up for the day.  This next series of 3 photos shows one of the walkways and a particular flower I came upon.  Don’t believe I’d ever seen anything quite like them before.

I’d been hearing some thunder and by 10:15 pulled out my poncho.  Here’s what I saw as I looked directly left of the trail about 30 seconds before the rain began:

At precisely 10:22 it began to rain pretty hard but only lasted for about 15 minutes.  That would be the last of the precipitation for the day, but in the next hour I trudged along with about half an inch of mud stuck to my sandals.  It was WONDERFUL!  I just let my mind drift back across the centuries with visions of the Lord and His apostles slogging along in just the same way and quite likely on just the same trail.  And even before that, Jesus spent his entire childhood ranging these very hills.  It was WONDERFUL to have that mud caked on my soles!

Storks were everywhere circling in the skies and alternately taking off and landing in the fields.  They are a beautiful black and white, get quite close, and fly in a very slow and graceful manner.  I saw several dozen before the day ended.  The gray and black crows, pigeons, and white doves are also abundant.  I saw at least two species of butterfly, a few bees and for a short space a small cloud of flies.  Fields were in various stages of growth or harvest, and flowers were abundant.  Maybe the guys won’t care for this so much, but ladies, here’s a few photos for YOU…

At about the four and a half mile mark I came to the Park entrance for Zippori (a.k.a. Sephoris).  It is a large 1st century Roman site quite possibly begun when Jesus was still living at home in Nazareth with Joseph and Mary.  The ruins are extensive and quite interesting.  The tour of this site may have added a mile or more to my journey, but it was worth it.  I took many photos of streets, mosaics from post biblical times, and other things, but here are a few shots taken from the roof top of the Crusader Fortress:

Immediately upon leaving the park I entered a pine forest and spent the next hour within its soothing environs.  By the way, except for the time I was on the streets of Nazareth, I was usually alone on the trail.  Altogether I don’t think I passed more than six people on the trail itself during the entire day.

The piney woods:

Along about the tenth mile I came to city called Mash’had.  Now I was on very narrow and hilly streets with lots of people and I’ve gotta tell ya, I was only one guitar short of being a rock star in this town!  No kidding, they LOVED me here.  Obviously, I don’t exactly blend in among these folks but apparently they are just ecstatic about having an American walking around.  I could have sold tickets to my own traveling freak show.  Time and time and time again, I mean time after time, cars honked and then the occupants smiled and waved and shouted.  Kids came running up from all directions to shake my hand.  One seemed to know only a single English word, but it was “Welcome” which he repeated with exuberant gusto.  I got lost in here for maybe half an hour, so I went into a little convenience store to ask directions.  Two guys fell all over themselves to help (although only one of them spoke passable English so it took awhile) but as I left he asked if I was being treated well in his city.  WELL?!?  I never felt more welcome in my life.  I mean to tell ya, the SAINTS aren’t nearly this friendly on SUNDAYS! 

Another mile or two across the little valley which separates the hillside town of Mash’had from the equally precipitous town of Cana (of the two possible locations for Jesus’ turning water into wine, Ferrell had earlier informed me that this was less likely to be the actual place) I entered the next bed and breakfast, Cana Guest House, also known as Cana Wedding B & B.  My rolling “carry-on” bag was waiting for me and I now write in a small dormitory with bathroom, refrigerator, TV, and a total of 9 narrow beds (along with a baby crib) in three rooms.  It’s all crammed into a relatively small space, but I’m the only occupant tonight.

I was so exhausted from the hike that I fell asleep in the corner bed from 5 to 7 pm and now after 3 and a half hours of fooling with two blog entries I’m pretty well ready to sleep again.  Hope I’m not boring anyone with all this stuff, but I’m having the time of my life! 

Wish you were here…

This is footsore Larry, celebrity extraordinaire (in one tiny town in northern Israel anyway) and weary pilgrim, signing off for the night…