DAYS 8 & 9 (May 4 & 5, 2011):
Herod’s Family Tomb, Israel Museum, Jerusalem Model, Western Wall of Temple Mount, Temple Mount, Pool of Bethesda, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, SW Corner and Southern Stairs of Temple Mount
Herod the Great deserved his moniker, but even those who loom largest in history must suffer the loss of those they once (even if not presently) loved. A tomb has been discovered on the western side of Jerusalem which fits Josephus’ description of the ancient king’s family tomb. In fact, it is also one of the very few places in all of Israel where you can view an actual tomb with the rolling stone in place and thus see for yourself how one must “stoop to look in” as described in John 20:5. The extant stonework suggests the magnificence of Herod’s handiwork although, of course, all of the walls and roofing have long since vanished. Still, here apparently is the place where Herod laid his family members to rest and it is the place we began our Wednesday, May 4th.
We next walked through the archeological sections of the Israel Museum and stood amazed at many artifacts, far too numerous to mention. Photographs are not permitted by the Israeli authorities so I cannot provide images and will not attempt to describe these things.
There is a very large model of Jerusalem adjacent to the museum and we spent a long while walking slowly around it as our guides explained the topography of Jerusalem and what structures had been in place at various points in its long and storied history. We took a vote the following day and all agreed that viewing this model BEFORE we walked the city itself was most advantageous. Getting the lay of the land from the model and then burrowing into the warren of streets which is Jerusalem was really fun. You seldom get to see a three dimensional map like this, let alone one which depicts David, Solomon, and Jesus’ Jerusalem.
And then it was on to the renowned western wall itself. The magnificence of Herod’s construction is overwhelming. On Monday I’ll tour the tunnel which holds the largest stone of all (an estimated 580 tons) but as you can see, the ones in this area must top 100 tons anyway.
These two days, May 4th & 5th were arduous. We must have walked between two and three miles each day over very rough stones with nary a blade of grass to cushion our feet. This city is HARD. You walk on stone, sit on stone, lean on stone. And that’s not all. Except for the Temple Mount itself, one is usually on stairs or ramps. Up and down, up and down, up and down in temperatures fit to fry a mossbacked Washingtonian like myself. Still, these are often the very stones upon which Biblical figures also tread and since we're trying to become like them in so many ways, I suppose I can't complain. I have to tip my safari hat to everyone on the tour, quite a few of which were somewhat older than I am, all of whom were uncomplaining (though a few looked to be on the verge of temptation) and grimly determined not to slow anyone else down. Perhaps arduous isn’t the right word, maybe “grueling” is. So, everybody deserved an “A” for effort on these two days, and here are some stones Herod’s workers laid 2,000 years ago which deserve and “A” rating too.
Thursday, May 5th began with an x-ray scanner for all of our backpacks or purses as we lined up to ascend the long wooden ramp (YAY! WOOD! It felt so soft) which leads up to the only entrance the Muslims allow “infidels” like us to use. And then there we were, passing through a stone arch and emerging onto the huge platform which Herod (there’s that “great” guy again) built for the Jews (and his own glory). Today, of course, the temple is gone as Jesus foretold in Matthew 24 and related passages throughout the New Testament. Still, one can draw a circle of perhaps only 400 feet in diameter and know with near perfect certainty that within its perimeter the Temple of which Jesus spoke once stood. Now my friends, that’s about as close to an epicenter as you can get! The reverberations of David’s placing the Ark of the Covenant upon this place, of Solomon’s Temple, and of Herod’s reconstruction are quaking still. However, I chose to work only with my video camera this time so I don’t have any photographs to share. I know this is cruel, but neither photos nor videos can transmit the sense of awe one feels when standing on the place where Solomon & Herod’s Temples stood anyway. So, you’ll just have to come on over here yourself on this one.
However, there are two places below the mount itself, at the foot of the retaining walls Herod built, and in the shadow of the very stone his masons cut and placed which are my favorites. The first is below the western wall in the 200 feet at the south end. Recent excavations have revealed the stones which Titus Vespasian had pushed off the mount onto the street below (a street which no doubt Jesus and the apostles walked). These stones pounded the pavement and contorted it much like an earthquake does. The excavators left some of these stones in place, exactly where they have lain for 2,000 years. But in other places they’ve removed these stones to reveal the pavement beneath. Here are some photos of that southern end of the western wall:
The other place I particularly like to stand upon is the Monumental Staircase which runs for a couple of hundred feet and all along the base of the southern wall. The Jews of old, of Jesus day, and even to our time will approach this wall by reading “Psalms of Ascent” as they step up each of these stairs. Again, no doubt, Jesus, the apostles, and many of the saints of old walked these very steps which have, again, only come to light after excavations of very recent years. You’ll just never be the same after seeing and walking upon these stones. Now, remember, it is the rough and rounded stairs which date back to New Testament times. The nice flat ones with square corners have been constructed so that we might more easily ascend to the base of the wall.
Here I am next to a stone Herod produced as I stand at the top of the Monumental Staircase.
Don’t you wish you were here? I do too!
Comments
Post a Comment